How To Take Slack Out Of Throttle Cable

push the nipple right up against the clutch arm and tighten it, using another set of visegrips to stabilize the thing. At no point should you see “slack” or loose Dacron cord on the servo shaft unless the throttle lever on engine is back to full neutral stop. all you need to do is cut some PVC pipe and araldite it to the throttle tube where the cables wrap around. If I could remove about. First, do a quick check for slack in the cable by lightly pressing on the pedal while looking into the engine bay. There should be just a smidgin of slack when closed (wiggle the wire with fingers), but when at WOT there shouldnt be any slack in the cable to let it fall off. The cable ball end will reach into throttle sleeve now. I suppose the cable could be run incorrectly, but nothing was obvious to me in the parking lot. Hi, Stoneman. You can now spin the barrel nut CW to take some of the slack out of the throttle. slack in the throttle cable line by shifting the cable mount to the left. -Before attempting to remove the lower throttle cable, disassemble the throttle housing at the grip. As the accelerator is depressed it actuates the throttle butterfly on the throttle body allowing more air into the engine. The manual says it is a vacuum line. Next, pull out the spring. You may want to tighten a little and check the slack in the throttle, then tighten a little more, etc until it is set right. ) Adjust the gas pedal stop to ensure you are acheiving wide open throttle (WOT). This way you can adjust some of the slack out of the cable by moving the jam nuts on the adjuster. 6) For my KT controller, the PAS connector is a JST 3 pin male plug with brown/black as power/ground and signal was yellow. Well until it hits the stop on the throttle body anyway (can hear a faint 'click'). It could be something is broken off (possibly the idle stop) or it could be something in the control box itself is amiss. Remove the cover and put it to one side. To cut where you have marked the housing, take a thin knife and cut thru the vinyl outer housing. Place a nylon tie (zip tie) around the space and making sure it is nice and tight and cut the end off and you are done!. The switch is pushed up to wind in the cable or down to pay out the cable. Remove the throttle cable. When I took delivery of my 2015 I asked members about the throttle adjuster cable. If you move it two the left side the cable would come out of the throttle body to the rear and slack when you twist. Using the throttle cable adjustment nuts, I took almost all of the slack out so that I could depress the cable only a few mms, as others have noted here to be the correct amount of slack. I also need to readjust the modulator cable as it's just a tiny bit short of full travel at full throttle. It almost sounds like it isnt lined straight up. I also noticed some slop in my throttle cable so I used the little barrel adjuster to take the slack out. Do not kink the hose. Once the cables are set, move the handle at the headset through the gears to make sure you have it spot on. Out of 50mil video's - found one that may help -. We stock a full range of fittings, housing types and diameters and inner wire sizes to make any cable. Why? example the cable is slack. Turn adjuster to obtain correct free play adjustment. check to make sure the the outter cable cove ris locked in its retaining arm at the carburetor. I have no more adjustment to take out slack from the cable on the carb linkage. Also, the cruise control attachment point is almost 5/8" out of spec, which could result in cruise control engagement issues. Sure enough, it had stretched just a little. It was like putting a washer behind the end pull of the cable. just replaced the throttle cable. There is a clamp that comes with the kit to clamp the servo cable to the stock throttle cable. Towards the back of the engine, behind the throttle body and intake manifold, you will see the throttle cable coming out of its protective sheath and then connecting to the wheel on the throttle body. after getting home, i popped the hood and checked the throttle cable. Either replace the cable, as over time it gets stretched out. Turn all adjusters all the way in except for one turn, before fixating the cable. Im trying to work out a cable that will work. Kinda hard to describe but the factory adjusted them this way. Grab the connector housing and pull directly apart without twisting to disconnect. end of the cable. Throttle cable slack adjusters need to be backed off for lots of slack during the installation to allow the new throttle tube to fit, and after it's installed, the slack adjusters are tightened and cable free play set where you want it. Pushing the button in just slightly, to the second position, should give you 12 volts at the engage wire. Just gonna notify you guys that the throttle cable goes smooth and snap back when letting go of throttle. This is because the cam of the throttle tube is larger in diameter. Remove the cable from the latch by pulling the cable out of the slot and pulling the barb to the outboard side of the latch. Shortening the length of the cable will make little or no difference to throttle response. Shrink it tight and try inserting it rod and all. Re: throttle cable slack question first off it sounds like you need to do a link and sync. I picked up a new dual throttle assembly and a new throttle cable for it. Attach to carb, take up any slack using the cable adjuster on the carb housing (8mm spanner). this way, the instant the gas pedal starts moving, the cable is being pulled, and therefor the throttle body begins to open. In order to adjust that end, it seems as though those adjustment nuts would have to be loosened?. 0L throttle adjustment Looks like I got it. I even leave a small amount of slack in the cable to be on the safe side and it still opens 100% when I put the pedal to the floor. Use a set of needle nose pliers and move cable 90 degress to the plate and slide the little brass ferule out of the cam hole. So, I finally decided to schedule Slack messages and there are few options I found out. The product is also applicable to replace Morse # D302029 (OS) cables. Usually, the way you release it is by pulling the carb throttle wide open (twist your wrist at the top) and hold it open then maneuver the wire around and pop the cable out of the carb. After a couple hundred miles, it started shifting funny, so I checked the cable. yeah thats the carb that the others synch from i believe. I found just as I remove throttle cable slack by twisting throttle the motor will often die. Tightening the throttle cable 02-05 WRX About half of the cars I have flashed are not getting 100% throttle. Beware of that. It allows your bike to idle properly and allows you to smoothly and easily control the throttle position on your. not as much as you would think, and it didnt seem to be bottomed out on anything other than the floor. When the rope is tight, pull the handle back quickly. Adjust the slack back out of your throttle cables, referring to your manual if you don’t know how to do this. Rule of thumb is anytime you adjust the throttle cable a TPS sync (or whatever Yamaha is calling it) should be done. Turn the adjuster all the way in at the grip and at the carbs. When I installed my Lokar, we took all of the slack out of the cable and tightened it down. If I have it adjusted like that it doesn't upshift until 40mph or so, at least under light throttle. Could the cable be that stretched out that it needs to be replaced or am I missing a location to tighen the cable up? Thanx for any replys. Mount the CC sleeve such that the CC cable has maybe 1/4" slack. This may take awhile, but be patient and get it right. Try moving that out to take up 1/2" of slack or so, and if that doesn't tighten things up, look for a nut like I drew earlier - it will give you an extra inch or so of adjustment at the clutch. At the carbs, the cable goes through what I believe to be called a 'Restrictor', which is Part 154029 in the attached schematic from Rimmers. Your pic is in exactly the right place the large spring is where the cable from the accelerator pedal connects. Use the main adjuster located toward the center of the cable to take the rest of the slack out. So my question is is there a way to tighten/adjust the cable so there is no slack, or do i have to go out and buy a new cable altogether??. Put the wrenches on and back the locknut off (CCW) while holding the long barrel nut still with the other wrench. The light turns green and you just get on the throttle and go. Just can't figure it out. Mazda shows a SPRING that seems to connect that thingy that holds both rear brake cables to the part of the frame it runs through. There should be just a smidgin of slack when closed (wiggle the wire with fingers), but when at WOT there shouldnt be any slack in the cable to let it fall off. Hi, Stoneman. I can't get all of the slack out of it. I noticed i had some lag when i revved up my engine to downshift so i checked this. Now I will take the slack out and stop there, or maybe tighten the adjusting barrel 1/4 turn max. carbs should all move together exactly. Found this out when I replaced my grips this week. Disregard the slack and all of the beads crap discussed in the manual. This ensures that the cable doesn’t pull on the throttle and cause a high idle. The cable should have just a touch of slack in it, you do not want it to be tight and making a throttle input when you are not touching the gas. But acceleration is fine but very weak to climb up hill and feel acceleration pedal have a mild vibration when accelerating. But cars like this have cables that run to the throttle and sometimes they get loose. There are some cables that have small barrel inserts. With the throttle open all the way, adjust the throttle cable closest to the bike all the way out. FIND YOUR APPLICATION. Re: 1985 Mercruiser 3. Im going to seat it into the bracket with super glue and a metal expoxy. This will also allow for the part of the cable that slides into the cable sled and gets locked down by the set screw. ) Take the slack out of the cable at idle. On my 08 I occasionally will loosen the two nuts on the pull side throttle cable (the one on top that gets pulled to open the throttle butterfly). In this video, learn a great performance upgrade for your vehicle that costs nothing! Eric talks about his old Honda Integra and his irritation at its throttle response. You'll see a rubber boot over the adjuster on one of the cables. Mtb Clutch On Or Off. bar the throttle cable. throttle cable problem. Tips for removing carb throttle cables! help please Never dealt with a dual throttle cables, doesn't make sense how to remove them from the carb, do i take the grip side out? when i pull to get slack to unclip the other side gets tight, im just getting a brain fart on this one. I ran into the same problem when I asked for help on this one and the suggestions were to jump in because it is pretty basic. Can be in neutral or 1st gear as stand still with clutch pulled no difference so clutch is not effecting problem anymore. So you can just take the cap off stick the stick in and see how much gas is in the tank. Throttle Cable Zip Tie Mod. Step 6 The new parts. There is NO SLACK in the line at the manifold/throttle body. should be roughly 1/4" off the end of the threads. Remove: • ignition coil. cable it is about 6" too long stretch it out measure how too long it is 5-6" what ever add about 1/2" slack so motor doesn pull your cable but it wont if it is on the solid mounts bic brackets verry solid almost no movement!. A sign of a loose prop is the prop rocking left to right. Remove the rubber spacer between the two cables and DON'T lose it. Well until it hits the stop on the throttle body anyway (can hear a faint 'click'). Then I put it back together and adjusted the cable at the housing till it had no slack. Now I will take the slack out and stop there, or maybe tighten the adjusting barrel 1/4 turn max. I got the cables seated in the control housing and I had to take off the cable bracket by the carbs to get enough slack to get those ends back in. However the only thing that comes to my mind is either 1)Throttle cable is sticking a little OR 2) carburetor join which connects to the throttle cable is sticking, OR BOTH of those issues. Here’s how to buy Slack and what to consider before you do. Remove: • ignition coil. If it starts to tighten up back off the return a little bit. With mine, I adjusted the cable at the throttle crank to just take the slack out and it wound up just right at the tranny end. Hold the throttle grip closed and adjust the close cable at the carb to just take the slack out of the cable. Ensure that the throttle arm at the motor travels to the throttle stops. I think Jody H meant the adjusters up by the twist grip, as the fine tuners. I backed the cables off as far as they would go, on the throttle bodies and at the housing on the bars. It seems to work OK. Remember one over the top- one under the bottom. I think I got another click outta the TV adjuster, but that thing may be at the end of it's adjustment. Re-fit the rear axle assembly onto the mower by following the. It almost feels like there is some mechanical slop in the twist grip mechianism itself. I will take it out tomorrow night and recheck it. Installed one of these last night. There is no point in playing with the idle screw right now because there is way too much play in the throttle cable to keep the engine from shutting off when the throttle is released. My truck wasn't working baddly, but not it has a much quicker response off the line - of course. Also you can take the cable loose from the top of the pedal linkage, use small washers on the cable and then a split washer to slip over to hold them in place. Don't over tighten though, some freeplay is needed. 0L throttle adjustment Looks like I got it. The threaded part of the cable with the rubber sleeve on it is where one would remove said free play/slack to achieve the correct Throttle Freeplay adjustment. bar the throttle cable. * The delivery date is not guaranteed until you have checked out using an instant payment method. it seems to run ok and starts fine but now as soon a. A tool for adjusting the TPS Throttle Position Sensor voltage on a KTM and other motorcycles, ATVs, UTVs, and dirtbikes EXC XC-W XCF SXF SX XC, and Polaris Ranger, Sportsman and RZR. You can unscrew the top of the plastic switchgear on the clip on and put a little bit of lube down the "hole" that the metal cable is inside of. slow and lazy before tightening. Both throttle and idle cables on mine are loose too can't be adjusted out. Both cables will be adjustable at the carb side. Hi Guys,I need help,I have taken apart my throttle lever to replace shift cable,but now the brass bar has fallen out of handle and I cannot find a diagram to show me how to put it back together,also the neutral is now in a completely different position,wolud anyone have a photo of that and photo. I asked the dealer and he said that was not a problem with this bike and he was right. So, I shimmed it up a little to "flatten" out the TV cable a bit though it shouldn't be something that has to be done since i have all FAST parts here. How do i adjust my throttle and idle cables so that there is little slack in the throttle? - Answered by a verified Motorcycle Mechanic We use cookies to give you the best possible experience on our website. I took the slack out of the line but started the car and tested the cable before tightening everything down to make sure the idle wasn't affected. The voltage out of the TPS will tell you if it has. I am sure the PO had someone mes with this before and now its all out of sync. I took my TB off to install some headers. Turn the adjuster all the way in at the grip and at the carbs. You just want to feel a little slack when you twist the throttle. I had adjusted throttle cable to take out what I thought was excessive slack. I fitted my throttle not long ago, then noticed it developed some slack when settling in, it didn't go so well on the road, so i just took the slack out of it at the adjuster, about 2-3mm it was, and it's much better now. No matter how much I try to adjust it on the nut assym. There's two nuts that hold the cable in the bracket and that's where the adjustment needs to be made to take the slack out. Study the routing of the cable if you're replacing it. Also, keep it adjusted as tight as possible and keep as much cable as possible, in case it starts to fray down the road you can simply cut off the bad end, unless it snaps, and take some slack out if the end that goes to the throttle linkage and not have to replace the entire cable. Whres the cable is attached to the spring is the governor. The engine (Kaw FH531V) was running fine, on a Husqvarna 52" hydro walkbehind mower, but was leaking oil. With mine, I adjusted the cable at the throttle crank to just take the slack out and it wound up just right at the tranny end. Probably not a bad idea to take it apart, clean it and put some new grease on the parts. Step 2: Mount Firewall fitting in line with hole in clevis on throttle, or with hole in factory-type pedal. It is surprising how much there is to work with. As the cable is used the wire spool tightens up and it gains lenght. Can i bend the metal sleeve that encloses the cable back toward. Secure the carb top with the screws you removed earlier. With the idle screw where you want it there are 2 other cable adjusters in line to take the slack out. You will also need to remove the Idle Adjustment Bracket screw in order to take the fuel bowl off. The original cable that runs to the pedal is a perfect fit for the bracket i cut off the cruise cable. After many miles of driving even steel cables will wear out. start at the carb and adjust till the carb is wide open or start at the throttle adjuster on the bars. I checked mine out today, although I have about an inch of slack, when the gas pedal is pressed 100%, I do get 100% wide open throttle, so no reason to change or. Pull the hood off and follow the cable back from throttle body, you will find adjuster under rubber sleve, need a 8 and 10mm I think, loosen jam nut and make adjustment, tighten jam nut, put hood back on. If you're dealing with a four-stroke, there are two of these. On the carb side, you put the cable end into the linkage and then it wraps around the linkage, and then you fit the part with the two nuts onto the bracket. Just pop the little yellow cap off with the screw driver and the new one just clips back on. Just adjust it to factory spec. One drum is usually fixed to the shaft, while the other is loose, with a screw link or other means of coupling, in order to be able to adjust the two ropes to exactly the same length, so that one cage may be at the surface when the other is at the bottom, without having to pay out or take up any slack rope by the engine. So back off the nut and spin it counterclockwise to take slack out of the cable. There is another adjuster down by the throttle bodies for cable slack. I was trying to put the throttle cables on and they are about 1/2" too short. Apparently too much slack in the throttle cable will cause the gas pedal to have a lack of control when first stepping on it. I tried it in the housing and it just cleared, which means with the cables around it, it would drag. I found the 378 cable about 7/8" long. I just have to figure out what I'm going to do with the extra slack. zip it right around the cable and then slide up against the metal ferrule on the end of the cable. In this case the bracket goes between the two jam nuts. By Ari Henning. I think I got another click outta the TV adjuster, but that thing may be at the end of it's adjustment. To adjust it, loosen the locknut on the cable (just below the handle bar) and rotate clockwise to decrease the free play, or counter-clockwise to increase it. Read Comments. On those, you often ought to take up some slack on the cable, twist the cable in the direction of a slot, then pull the cable interior the direction of the slot whilst the ball or disc comes out of a hollow on the comparable time. I'll likely get another cable that is longer. I was also wondering if there are any adjustments in the back of a mercury helm control (mine seems like a hybrid of some sort but it looks like a 3000) I just don't get how I had no problems last year and all of the sudden I am facing a cable that has a lot of slack. I had adjusted throttle cable to take out what I thought was excessive slack. Slacken off the nut and turn the long adluster so it moves away from the nut as if you were undoing it this will take up the slack in the cable, do this till you fell comfortable with how the throttle feels, then re-tighten the lock nut onto the adjuster and slide the covers back over. Secure the carb top with the screws you removed earlier. Im trying to work out a cable that will work. Hi, Stoneman. Couldn't do anything to fix all the slack on the pedal side of the fire wall. Towards the back of the engine, behind the throttle body and intake manifold, you will see the throttle cable coming out of its protective sheath and then connecting to the wheel on the throttle body. Take off the C-clip on the gold colored cable (this is your throttle) and pull the cable up out of the assembly. Then adjust the other cable adjuster but leave just bit of slack so it does not work against the first cable. Both throttle and idle cables on mine are loose too can't be adjusted out. should be set in the middle of its adjustment so that you will have movement to take out the slack. On the other end (at the helm), you need to be able to take apart the hand controls housing and adjust the cable length with the threaded fitting. To do this, push the clutch arm forward using a block of wood or hammer shaft and slip out the inner cable and trunnion out of the clasp. Yes, by twisting and holding the throttle far enough it would idle with the clutch engaged. Trace the cable coming out of the throttle to the bulge in the cable (the connector). There is a little adjustment mechanism right there on the throttle line buy your throttle. If you get no rise in rpm, then return to straight and snug up the pull cable (the one on top) a little and repeat. OK, I disconnected the throttle cables from both carbs. How To Adjust Motorcycle Throttle Slack - Every bike that uses throttle cables needs periodic adjustment to take up the natural slack introduced by the metal wire cable stretching over so many. Push the button in and slide the adjuster back away from the throttle body. The "fix" should be a simple adjustment that you can make at the handlebar. The throttle cable was the perfect size length for my XR-50R pitbike that has a tall BMX style handlebar kit on it & worked out great without having any excess slack to have to worry about once the twist throttle kit was mounted to my handlebars. No matter how much I try to adjust it on the nut assym. I haven't messed with it yet knowing that i was going to be taking it in for the recall even though it did have what seemed like excessive slack in it because i didn't know how it would come back after the recall. The last step is to attach your tachometer. So you can just take the cap off stick the stick in and see how much gas is in the tank. Remove the return cable and install the new cable the same way the old cable came off. In fact, a while back my throttle cable ferrule kept coming out of the handgrip cause the snap ring was so loose. The difficult part is the bottom cable. then minor adjusted for proper slack. The light turns green and you just get on the throttle and go. The first thing you may want to try is Slack’s native Remind command. When my roommate put the TB back on he noticed that the throttle cable has too much play. Trace the cable from the throttle on the handlebar to the connector at the front of the bike. Next, tighten the deceleration adjuster (the cable that pulls the grip into the throttle-closed position) so that there is no slack when the throttle is held closed. didnt take much adjustment at all really. Next you simply take a fuel line hose and attach one end to the fuel tank and the other to the fuel intake on your engine. Any one bother to adjust the throttle cable? - posted in Maintenance & Repairs: Only saw one topic in regards to it. If I floor it, there's still room to get to WOT, like I need another 1/8" or 1/4" of cable movement. Unplug the throttle-wiring harness connector. Only lift it enough to free the cap from the throttle grip. Have a helper pull on the cable from the foot throttle end. If I give it a little more throttle no problem. What is the best way to avoid going over that limit without going to the paid version? Is message deletion an option or would deleted messages still count towards the overall message limit? Thanks for looking. I cleaned the throttle body a few days ago as well as the MAF sensor (I also disconnected the MAF sensor to see if that was the problem). 2 INITIAL CABLE - If the standard cable is used on the quick action version it will not let the carb slides drop fully. Whres the cable is attached to the spring is the governor. Where should the throttle linkage sit, amount of slack on the Bowden, if any and should I move the modulator up or down to smoothen out the shift points. That you will have to take the Float assembly out to fix. carburetor housing, rotating it until it meets its groove and fully drops in place. Slide the boot up and you'll see the lock collar and adjuster. You’ll probably have to remove a bolt and disassemble the lever assembly near the handle to get the cable out. This is important to maintain a low idle. Compress the spring up against the lid of the carb to create enough space for the cable's nub to be removed from its groove on the slide assembly. A snow blower is a useful tool for clearing large amounts of snow from walkways and driveways. It slips into the hole in the accelerator pedal. It wouldn’t be a disaster, only a nuisance. If you cannot undo the trunnion, don't worry, you can simply cut it off with wire cutters. hook the "snap on clip" to the carb. Ive just picked up my esprit, and am having trouble with excess throttle cable slack (enough for the cable to pop out of the pedal side cable eye). Roll the cable guide around with your thumb to get slack in the cable so you can work the little brass cable end retainer (#10) out of the notch. -There are many ways to remove the lower cable, but I used needle-nose pliers to grab enough the cable slack to remove it. I reconnected the throttle cables to the carbs and both the left and right side pull the plate off of the idle screw approximately 1/4". 0L throttle adjustment Looks like I got it. cable tight at wot. If you happen to have a throttle cable laying around, could you please measure its length for me pleas. I took the slack out of the line but started the car and tested the cable before tightening everything down to make sure the idle wasn't affected. As long you have the proper housing length versus total cable length for your application you should be able to adjust them out. That screw is on the back of the pump and you really can't normally get to it because of a "tamper proof" cover. Suzuki 1500LC / C90 Owners Group-Classic - Throttle adjustment? - My throttle has, all of a sudden, developed about an inch of slack before the rpms start to rise. When you adjusted the cable to take out all of the slack at WOT, did you make sure you pulled the cable all the way? They will feel slack up to a point, then there is a little travel at the end that is against a spring. Pull the housing and grip off of the handle bar. But I've done a in dunes fast fix on a couple of RZR. 2 INITIAL CABLE - If the standard cable is used on the quick action version it will not let the carb slides drop fully. When the throttle is all the way off, this will take pressure off the gear sprockets and allow your bike to shift into the next gear. When adjusting the cable take the slack out of the pull side then slowly adjust the return as it will delay the throttle from snapping back. So what I did was adjust throttle cable to take that slack out. my pedal has a mile of play so i need to do something about it. then turn the throttle plate clock wise allowing the threaded end of the cable to fit into the lower round hole of the throttle cable connection plate. If the entire cable assembly is moving instead of just the inner core wire, you'll have to secure the termianl fitting. The pedal is way too close to the floorboard. all it cost me was some araldite and a $1 piece of tube. Thread new cable through from headset end, use a little oil. anyone ever have to do this? also…why would my cable be so frickin' long? im sure its stock. Also you can take the cable loose from the top of the pedal linkage, use small washers on the cable and then a split washer to slip over to hold them in place. Then you take the screwdriver and push the other tab inand the throttle cable falls into the engine comaprtment. Re: throttle cable slack question first off it sounds like you need to do a link and sync. 2014 Honda Grom 170. There are some cables that have small barrel inserts. Hi, I'm new to the Forum and was wondering if anyone knows how to shorten the throttle cable that comes with a 2-stroke engine kit? Mine is about a foot too long and I'd like to cut it and make it shorter, but it has a small nub on the end that connects to the throttle and I assume I need that. Take the cable off of the pivot pin by pulling the cable eye gently out and remove, then pull the white plastic clip on the back side out to unlatch the cable housing. Ducati GT 1000 Throttle Cable Adjustment I've been noodling on the possible reasons for the GT1000's super-sensitive throttle. I removed the clip in the new carb so I can get that cable out someday. You will need to push the throttle forward with your finger to get some slack and pop the metal stud into the new location hole. Try lubing the area of the top adjuster with silicone spray;if unsuccessfull,go drastic by removing the tank,than the airbox,then the coils plate;under there,you"ll be able to adjust the slack directly on the throttle bodies. How would it be frozen at WOT though? Unless you had something holding it open? Also may want to take the cover off where the cable meets the throttle body linkage and have a look at it. The throttle cable I ordered with the Lectron just didn’t fit the Hybrid very well. Mazda shows a SPRING that seems to connect that thingy that holds both rear brake cables to the part of the frame it runs through. One problem not mentioned on that thread is the stress you will put on the throttle body shaft without a throttle stop. I thought I had set it to spec, and it felt good to my hand. I checked mine out today, although I have about an inch of slack, when the gas pedal is pressed 100%, I do get 100% wide open throttle, so no reason to change or. Well until it hits the stop on the throttle body anyway (can hear a faint 'click'). Have cables threaded into housing - this creates the next length of cable needed. As it is close to being all the way out, keep adjusting it until the butterfly on the carburetor or intake manifold is completely level. OK, we'll let you get back. As you can see, when the cable is pulled, the "T" piece is pulled back and because the steel wire (generic lawm mower solid throttle cable) is attached to the arm of a "T", instead of the arm itself, it pulls to the side and back instead of just back- to get smooth throttle response, it has to pull out (towards the side of the bike, and back. Throttle cable slack - posted in MXZ / Legend / Summit / Grand Touring / Formula : When I press the throttle it moves about 1/4 before it engages. Its the 65mm TB Thanks!. Had to enlarge the hole in the firewall and bend the arm on the throttle pedal a little bit to take up some slack. I followed the directions that someone posted on here. Chevy Corvette 2005, Throttle Body Cable by Sniper®. How much slack are you talking about, and what bike? According to manuals there should be a couple of millimetres but more than that should be able to be taken out by adjusting the throttle cables. So my pedal has a good 1/4 inch or more of play and its kinda annoying when blipping the throttle to downshift and stuff like that. It is doing much better and I here at the house. Hello guys I'm having a problem with the bike, I have too much slack on the throttle and its annoying to drive with. Grab the connector housing and pull directly apart without twisting to disconnect. Next just begin to tighten the acceleration "upper cable" where you feel the throttle handle feels slightly loose. I was able to loosen the one throttle cable but couldn't get to the other. You do this by pulling on the throttle cable to give yourself enough slack to rotate the cable end which fits into a slit in the throttle body cam. The correct way to adjust the throttle cable is to have someone floor the accelerator pedal, then adjust the cable so the throttle valve is "just" touching the end stop for WOT. With all adjustment set so there is maximum slack (and a completely stupid amount of free play) You then tighten the cables until they are just short of tight. Harley Davidson Sportster: How to Replace Clutch Cable. Turn adjuster to obtain correct free play adjustment. you want the slack out, but you want the engine to easily come all the way down to idle after letting off the gas pedal. Shrink it tight and try inserting it rod and all. Now when they have support issues, they can simply create a ticket through a designated Slack channel. I don't know if it's the same for 904s or not. So, I got out there and spent a little time with the car to see if I could figure the problem out. it might in all risk be useful if we had any concept. The cable has been adjusted so that at maximum throttle opening (at the twistgrip) the butterfly valve is very close to fully open. It is surprising how much there is to work with. My question is I know you can take out some of the slack at the carb via the barrel anchor but can you do the same at the control end? I know I may need a new cable but am against a time crunch and need a temporary fix until I can get a new one installed. 2014 Honda Grom 170. Might work but I think it would have to have pretty thin walls and somewhat stiff.